On April 17, 2025, the Hampshire Dining Commons at UMass Amherst was transformed into a hub of culinary inspiration and ecological insight, thanks to a visit from award-winning chef and sustainability advocate Barton Seaver. The event, centered on sustainable seafood, offered students and guests not just an exquisite meal, but also an eye-opening discussion on how our seafood choices impact global ecosystems, public health, and food security.
Chef Seaver’s culinary career began in the heart of Washington, D.C., where he led some of the top seafood restaurants in the city. His work earned widespread acclaim, particularly for his commitment to sustainability his restaurant Hook alone served over 100 different species of fish in its first year. Seaver later partnered with National Geographic as a fellow, traveling the world to promote sustainable fishing practices and producing educational content like the Seafood Decision Guide. Today, he continues this mission as the Director of the Sustainable Seafood and Health Initiative at the Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health, where he works to inform institutions and individuals on how responsible food choices can foster healthier people and a healthier planet.
The evening at Hampshire Dining was filled with thoughtful discussion, culinary demonstrations, and standout dishes but the clear winner for me was the New England fish cake with a lime dill crema. The crema alone could turn anyone into a seafood connoisseur, and the fish cake had a wonderful gelatinous, yet bright and acidic flavor. Made with Hake an underappreciated alternative to cod or haddock it was not only delicious but educational. As Seaver pointed out, Hake is about $12 cheaper per pound than cod and, to the delight of many at the event, arguably better tasting.
Beyond the plate, Seaver challenged the crowd to rethink the way we consume seafood. He criticized America’s “toxic individualism” in food culture our collective insistence on a narrow set of familiar species like cod, tuna, and salmon which has led to overfishing and reduced quality and availability. Seaver urged both institutions and individuals to “spread the love” across a broader range of fish species and to opt for the local “catch of the day” rather than demanding the same few types of fish. By doing so, he argued, we can reduce pressure on popular species, support local fisheries, and embrace a more resilient food system.
Events like this are a reminder that sustainability can be delicious. Chef Barton Seaver not only brought incredible food to the table, but also brought wisdom, humor, and a much-needed shift in perspective. With leaders like him pushing the conversation forward, the future of sustainable seafood looks a little brighter and a lot tastier.
